Lake Superior Provincial Park

Somewhere about 130 kilometers north of Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, the world changes. The road bends north along Highway 17, and suddenly you are in another realm, one ruled by cliffs, water, and endless sky. The first glimpse of Lake Superior hits like a deep breath you did not know you were holding. It is hard to believe you are still standing beside a lake. This is the largest freshwater lake in the world by surface area, but it behaves more like an ocean, cold, moody, and alive.

Lake Superior Provincial Park sits along its rugged northern shore, where ancient rock meets unrelenting water. Bands of basalt, granite, and gneiss drop straight into the depths, painted in ribbons of color like brushstrokes frozen in water. The cliffs do not give way to the water, they climb out of it. And above them, the forest breathes. This place feels like a freshwater rainforest, damp, green, and constantly shifting between fog and light. Come spring, the forest floor comes alive with color. Wildflowers blanket the ground, including pink lady’s slippers, bloodroot, Dutchman’s breeches, bunchberry, and spring beauties, all rising from the damp earth like old friends returning after a long winter. Each season brings its own mix of color to the understory, a reminder that even here, where the elements can be harsh, life still finds a way to bloom.

Wildlife still roams freely here. Moose, black bears, loons, trout, and salmon remind you that you are deep in their territory now. The park hums with life, some of it beautiful, some of it relentless. Mosquitos, black flies, deer flies, and stable flies are ever-present during the wrong season, delivering bites that do not kill but may feel like death by a thousand pinpricks. Catch the hatch wrong, and you might rethink your trip before the tent stakes are in. But time it right, and you will find yourself in one of the most peaceful places you have ever been.

Kayaking on Lake Superior is a lesson in respect. The water is stunning, deep blue, reflective, and wide as the horizon, but calm waters are always appreciated, perhaps more so here, where Superior is known for its power and constant movement. Even in the heart of summer, water temperatures rarely become bearable for more than five to ten minutes. Cold does not care who you are; it will show its icy grip in moments if you are unprepared. Paddle with care, plan for safety, and you will be rewarded with a front-row seat to the cliffs, mirrored bays, and endless sky.

If you are looking to stretch your legs, Sand River Trail (also called Pinguisibi Trail or Sand Creek Falls) is worth the climb. It follows the river as it tumbles over rock and root, revealing waterfall after waterfall. Each turn teases you into seeing what is around the next bend. Old Woman Bay invites a pause. Step onto the sand to see the “Old Woman” from the shoreline, or climb higher on the Nokomis Trail for a birds-eye view of her form and the seemingly endless lake beyond. The park offers many other trails for just about any size adventure, including the Coastal Trail, which, as the name suggests, follows the shoreline and can take nearly a week to complete. And then there is Agawa Rock, where centuries-old pictographs cling to the cliffside just above the waves. Painted by the Ojibwe, they have endured the same wind, ice, and water that shape everything here. Some days the trail to the site is safe to pass; others, the lake makes it off-limits. Know your limits, respect the place, and never underestimate Superior’s reach.

Camping options here fit every mood. Agawa Bay Campground sits right on the shoreline, set on the northeast shore, perfectly positioned for sunsets that paint the sky as the sun disappears into the water. Fall asleep to the crash of waves and wake up to the calls of loons drifting through the morning mist. Rabbit Blanket Lake Campground offers a quieter, forested escape inland. Either way, plan ahead. The nearest towns are Wawa to the north or Sault Ste. Marie to the south, so stock up on supplies before you roll in.

Lake Superior Provincial Park is not what most imagine when they hear “last frontier,” but it has every quality to deserve the title. From the cliffs that climb out of the lake to the forests that tower above, from the wildlife that roams freely to the trails that invite exploration, its beauty can always be appreciated, even if it sometimes takes a little grit to endure. It rewards those who respect its power, wait for calm waters, and find the quiet moments between storms and the relentless bites. For those who do, there is nowhere else quite like it.